reinersblog.com

The Forest Service has really promoted the Lolo Trail road (Lolo Moterway- dirt road) but not much has been published in recent history about the Lolo Trail. Historical accounts have been gathered together in Lynn and Dennis Baird’s book In Nez Perce Country Accounts of the Bitterroots and the Clearwater after Lewis and Clark. Many accounts from the 1877 war are in this book.

The Appaloosas on this trip are from old Nez Perce lines. They are tough, and full of endurance. Most people ride with me only once- but not the Nez Perce. We followed the old trail abandoned by the Forest Service, with downed timber from 80 years of no maintance. We laughed as we stepped over small downed trees, one foot high- and recalled Howard’s comments about how he had to cut the trail out to follow the Nez Perce. These trees were just like unevenly spaced cavaletti. We had one rider who had never ridden, and girls with cut faces who never complained. Watch those tree brancehs on non- maintained trails.

Some places the old trail was a single path knee deep ditch, from the thousands of horse who traveled to the buffalo country. Some places the trail is no longer visable- a ghost trail- from lack of use. Some places the Forest Service has placed logs and branches in the trail to discourage use. “Arron, see that cut log in the trail? ” Yes. “That’s Forest Service ” trail obliteration” praject.”

“But this is the Nez Perce Trail” Arron replied.
Yes, and it is a National Historic Trail, and you can’t keep the Nez Perce people off of it; because of their treaty rights. The Lolo Trail is also a National Historic Landmark. During the 2007 Chief Joesph Appaloosa Ride the Forest Service kept the riders on the Lolo Divide road, but I ride the old trail every chance I get. If we dont use it- we loose it. From mile marker 49 for a short ways (15 minutes) the old trail is no longer visable, its a ghost trail, but my horse knows where the old trail path was still visable in 2005. The old Lolo Trail is an awesome place.

Jack gathered plants. He gave us cows- cow- Big Medison. You dry it and flake it into coffee. Gene and I both got a root.

Bigfoot came to our camp twice, maybe 3 times. Most Americans never heard of the big ape- some believe he is a demon- many fear him- once they see him. He thumped on a tree above our camp at Howard Camp- tap- tap- tap- at 2 AM. He reached in my horse trailer and ate dog food at Sherman Saddle Camp. One dog barked once- bark- and quit. Even the dogs respect Bigfoot. I have never seen him, but I have heard him, on different trips to the Bitterroot Mountains.

      Labor Day weekend we rode the old Lolo Trail with the Nez Perce, Indian decendenets of the 1877 War. Wow.  It was awesome. Its been a dream of mine to get the Nez Perce youth back on their old trail; an anchent trail as old as time. This is our second ride of about 20 riders and 40 campers on the old Nez Perce Trail; 2006 was our first Nez Perce Appaloosa Horse Club trail ride here. We visited old Nez Perce sacred sites, prayed for peace and healing of wounded hearts, and found unity among mankind from different races and heritage, and background. It is always awesome to ride with the Nez Perce people. 

        General Sherman said of this trail, “Its the worst trail in America, for any man or beast. ” Harpers Weekly called it the  “Dead Mule Trail” as General Howard left cannons, bacon ,and mules behind as he stumbled and fell along the Lolo Divide in the vast Bitterroot Mountains of central Idaho and Montana. The Nez Perce people seeking freedom and peace began their great march to northern Montana, where some made it to Canada. Some were taken captive to Okalahoma, and a few made it back to the homeland in Idaho. The land taken from Chief Joseph’s people in Oregon is still held by the whites. The 1877 War is studied in the history books and war tactics manual at the US. military acadamy in Colorado Springs. The Chief Joseph Appaloosa Ride follows the corridor of the old war trail traveling from Joseph Oregon to Bear Paw Mountans, in a 13 year cycle, covering about 100 miles a year the third week of July each year.

      The Landmark Lolo Trail is part of the Nez Perce National Historic Trail from Lolo Montana to Kamiah, and Orofino Idaho. This 150 mile segment of the Nez Perce National Historic Trail is on the old Nez Perce Reservation, the first reservation before their land was reduced. The current treaty rights allow the Nez Perce people to hunt fish, travel and camp on their old hunting grounds. We traveled the old trail used in the 1877 war that few will ever see. Its an awesome place, and not for the faint of heart.